Topic: Painting recommendations?

[Rochndil]

Good afternoon!

After making a poor decision years ago and shipping all my gaming materials (EXCEPT my RM books OF COURSE) to my brother, who has kids that are getting to be about the right age, I did have a change of heart and grab back my figures. Most of them are still unpainted (although quite a few are primed), and although I can no longer see well enough to do the detail work directly, I DO have a very nice magnifying lamp to help me.

So then, the important question becomes, paints. Back in the day, I used Floquil model railroad paints (because I already had quite a few), and it DOES look like they're still available, if expensive. What I don't see is the water-based polly-o line, which was available in more figure-appropriate colors.

I'd like to know what folks today are using. Ideally I'd like a water-based, micro-pigment paint that comes in a good color spectrum and isn't too expensive (and doesn't have to be ordered from Russia or somewhere!).

Also, any internet painting resources would be welcome, since most of the links I had saved have gone dark. I know how to do things the way I did them in the past, but I'm sure there are many BETTER ways to do things too. For instance, what (if any) adhesives work on lead figures? I used steel pins and even watch screws to hold things together.

Rochndil, who may not have anyone to play with ATM, but things can change...

[intothatdarkness]

Games Workshop does pretty good figure paints, IMO.

[markc]

Rochndil,
 You might try the internet for a game if you can do that.


 As to painting I also have not painted in a while but I also found my box of mini's and some paints I think that I might also start back in on them.


 One thing I would do again though was prime the mini's again as the old primer will not have a good surface to hold paint. You might try something to micro scratch the surface of the primer such as a TSP bath. But IMHO the best thing would be prime them again.


MDC

[mocking bird]

I use Citadel/GW paints.  Mainly because they are at the gameshop.   I haven't tried any of the new drybrush or texture ones.  They also have another brand but I don't recall it - mainly the paints for another mech mini wargame (War Machine?). A person in my group just uses waterbased paints from a hobby/craft store - forgot the brand.

For metal adhesives, I use superglue.  The issue is on some metal figs you don't have a lot of contact area and pieces can be heavy.  That is where pinning and some greenstuff (2 part putties) come in handy.

If you want some suggestions about painting techniques or feedback on painting techniques, adhesives, cleaners, sealers & greenstuff alternatives check out the reaper wibsite forum - reapermini.  I have gotten some good tips - especially on stripping miniatures.  Reaper also has a line of paints to try.  The main difference is that I don't think they have metallics.

[Fnord]

Citadel are good and they have an excellent range of specialized paints (foundation, washes, etc), they recently rebooted their whole line of paints with a larger color palette and new goodies (drybrush paints, technical pigments, etc). They are very good, you can't go wrong with them, but sadly they are overpriced.

Vallejo are better overall, cheaper, with a substantially larger palette to chose from, and you get more paint per pot. The pot design of Vallejo is better IMHO, 'cause it lets you measure in drops and it makes easier to remember your mix proportions (e.g. two drops of wine red + 1 drop of sienna brown + 3 drops of that other color...)

I use Army Painter or Tamiya sprays for undercoat, the Citadel foundation range for basecoat (these are superb), Citadel for washes and inks and Vallejo for everything else.

Alternatively, if you are into mass-painting of large regiments of miniatures, try the Army Painter method (Spray + Basecoat + Quickshade dipping). They have recently started a new range of standard paints to complement their sprays and quickshades. The quality is good, although not on par with Vallejo or Citadel, but they are cheaper.

Cheers.

[Fnord]

Also, if you are looking for a good overall book on painting miniatures that will make you catch up with the latest techniques, try the CMON Ultimate Painting Guide.

http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/ultimate-painting-guide-link.html

It's a PDF that costs just 10 USD (also available in the "dark intarwebz").

It covers everything from basic painting to master techniques like "non-metalic metals" or "object source lightning".

[Fnord]

As for stripping miniatures...

If you live in the US, just go to Walmart and buy "Simple Green All Purpose Cleaner".
It's the best stuff for stripping minis, period.
In the US is available to the general public, in other places is only sold as an industrial cleaner to big companies.
It's so good that, whenever my sister in law comes to visit from the US, I ask her to bring me several bottles that I later resell to my local miniature shop. They then resell it in smaller quantities and they have a waiting list!!

There are plenty of tutorials and videos around showing how good Simple Green is. Just check youtube for "Simple Green stripping miniature"

[markc]

As for stripping miniatures...

If you live in the US, just go to Walmart and buy "Simple Green All Purpose Cleaner".
It's the best stuff for stripping minis, period.
In the US is available to the general public, in other places is only sold as an industrial cleaner to big companies.
It's so good that, whenever my sister in law comes to visit from the US, I ask her to bring me several bottles that I later resell to my local miniature shop. They then resell it in smaller quantities and they have a waiting list!!

There are plenty of tutorials and videos around showing how good Simple Green is. Just check youtube for "Simple Green stripping miniature"

 Maybe you could contact people coming from the USA to bring you the stuff. But then if you get too big the Gov might step in and shut you down.
   But then I also see this as a possible bis for you. Try and see just what kind of licence you need to buy the stuff in large containers and then repackage it...if possible. Or sometimes large containers cannot be sold but smaller containers can be, even if they buy 100,000 qt's they still cannot buy 1gal or lets make it they cannot buy 1 l even if they buy 100,000 cl bottles.


 Just some thoughts this Mon morning here is the Pacific NW.  And the painting advice is always great to have also.
MDC

[Rochndil]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I was at the local hobby shop (since there aren't any game stores LEFT in Atlanta, go figure!) this weekend, and their paints were pretty limited (pretty much Testors Model Masters and a little Tamiya(sp?). Obviously I can order online, but I like to put my hands on something before I buy it (if possible). I'll be on a working "vacation" up in Asheville next week, and hope to get a little time free to visit THEIR game stores, and check out available resources.

One thing I do have going for me, that I've used with excellent success in the past, is a decent (if not professional) airbrush. It works great for priming and clear-coating figures, though I'm not NEARLY skilled enough to detail paint with it at the 25mm scale. Painting a properly primed metal fig is MUCH easier than painting bare metal. And I NEVER would have thought of using Simple Green! I've got a bottle in the kitchen.

FWIW, don't trust the game store listings on Games Workshop's web site. Of the four listed in my area, three are closed, and I know for a fact that one of them has been closed for years!

Rochndil, who misses the Sword of the Phoenix store a lot...

[mocking bird]

I tried simple green and it didn't do much on really old & sealed figs.  Resorted to a diluted Pinesol.
 
Regarding primer & such - the Bones from Reaper are really quite good.  About 1/3 price of metal ones and much better than the 'fine'cast new ones from GW.  Got a set of those to see and won't be buying another one.

[Fnord]

I tried simple green and it didn't do much on really old & sealed figs.  Resorted to a diluted Pinesol.

Did you leave the miniatures soaking in undiluted Simple Green?
Two hours minimum. I usually leave them overnight, and then the paint just falls off like the faces of the bad guys in that scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark.

[smug]

For metal minis, pine-sol -- undiluted -- has always worked for me. Don't use it on plastics, at least not without more care and experimentation. Just leave them in -- I do overnight -- then rinse in water and use an old toothbrush to make sure you remove all the paint including in the crevices. Also keep the pinesol away from any varnished floors, etc.

I use Reaper paints, myself, love them and their dropper bottles (Vallejo paints also have dropper bottles and I assume there are other manufacturers that do, too). I used to do brush-on priming but now I use Krylon spray and do it outdoors, way easier and I just need to cut up a cardboard box to stop the paint going everywhere.

[mocking bird]

The mins in question were about 25 years old and done with Testers.  Undiluted PineSol on the porch for a week eventually cleaned them good enough to get to the point of scraping.

Box in the garage myself.  Found if you put them on wax paper you can rotate them around farily easily.  If they have a plastic base, punch the mini through to the base beneath. 

Unfortunately too humid in Iowa for several months to do it outdoors.  Have several ready to seal and then back to indor painting.

[markc]

 I am sort of surprised than no one has mentioned house paint remover. Since the mini's are metal they should not be hurt by the solution but if they have any plastic on them then you might not want to go that route.
MDC

[smug]

Pinesol is cheaper and doesn't smell as foul, though...

[markc]

Pinesol is cheaper and doesn't smell as foul, though...

 Yes it is also not quite as nasty chemically.
MDC